|From Horace Hutchinson's The Book Of Golf And Golfers|
Sunday, April 5, 2015
Thursday, April 2, 2015
FTEN, people describe the horn along the leading edge of the sole of a pre-1900 long nose golf club as 'ramshorn'. Most of the clubs through the 19th century used a whitish translucent horn actually derived from cattle rather than the horns found on rams from Scotland.
Here are the steps to insert the horn with the accompanying steps described by J.H. Taylor from The Book of Golf and Golfers:
|Tom Morris putter, left, circa 1870.|
Replica putter, right, with beech head and approximately 1/8" thick horn
|1/8" thick translucent horn cut with a Plexiglas cutter. |
The horn behaves similar to Plexiglas except for an odor.
Mark out mortise for horn with a marking knife.
Make the lines deep.
Also score a line with a marking gauge along the bottom of the face
a bit less than the thickness of the horn.
|Chisel out the waste. Go slowly. This process takes quite a bit of time.|
You could also consider using a hand router or electric trim router with fence.
|The horn is curved with heat prior to gluing to better conform to the slightly curved sole.|
There is a slight inward taper of the wall to lock in the horn, which has a complimentary dovetail-like taper
|Holes are bored through both the horn and clubhead.|
Ensure that the peg holes are angled back toward the rear of the club.
This will keep the horn better seated as the club contacts the ground.
|Clamps can be placed between the pegs.|
|The pegs are made of hickory or other hardwoods. I use the dowel plate seen in the background.|
|Play club made of pear wood.|
Illuminated letter "O" by Thomas Hodge from Golf, The Badminton Library
Wednesday, April 1, 2015
P until the 1890's, the golf club head was affixed to the shaft using a 4-6" taper on the head glued to a matching taper on the end of the shaft. Woodworkers know this joint as a scarf joint, while Scottish golf clubmakers call it a "scare joint". Besides golf, connecting two pieces of wood with adjoining tapered ends has many applications.
|A simple scarf joint can be used to connect mouldings, siding, boat masts, etc.|
|An angled scarf can be used to attach the headstock of a guitar to the neck.|
For hundreds of years, a simple scare joint was used for golf clubs. The year 1891 marked the gradual disappearance of the scare joint when Robert Anderson patented the socket neck. Since 1904, the majority of woods have been attached with the socket method where the shaft bores through a hole in the clubhead. The socket design is easier to manufacture. Traditionalists continued to use the scared neck design claiming better feel and tempo. The great Harry Vardon played all of his competitive rounds with the 'scare', and Walter Hagen won his fourth Open Championship in 1929 at Muirfield with one, the last major victory for the 'scared'. In his 1906 The Complete Golfer, Vardon makes a convincing argument for the continued use of the scared neck versus the socket neck:
|Early Anderson socket neck club, left. Photo courtesy Sotheby's|
Shaft end visible on the sole through bored hole in clubhead on a early 20thcentury club, right.
|Golfers had there choice of socket or scared clubs in the early 20th century. From Spalding's Official Golf Guide 1902|
|The scared joint typically ranges from 4-6"|
|Block plane used to make the scare on the neck of the clubhead..|
The length and angle of the scare should be the same for the shaft and clubhead neck
The angle can be adjusted surprisingly well with the plane and your eye.
|The taper follows the pencil line which is faintly seen.|
|Both ends of the planed surface should end in points.|
The grain of the shaft should run side to side rather than front to back
|Traditionalists used string to clamp the scare joint while the glue dried.|
I prefer clamps.
|Ensure that the grain runs in line with the neck|
|J. H. Taylor's description of the scare joint in The Book of Golf and Golfers|